Start by asking another member—most are happy to help. You can post on Discord and usually get a response. For access or account issues, message Steven on Discord or email him directly at steven@thejoinery.club.

Log into the Member Portal, click Member Profile , then Member Options. From there you can update your details, pause your membership, or cancel it entirely. No forms in triplicate, no awkward goodbyes—just a few clicks.

Stop using it right away and post a note in the #issues channel on Discord. Accidents happen—just report it. If it’s clear misuse or negligence caused the damage, you may be asked to help cover repairs.

Join our Discord server — that’s where most members share updates, ask questions, or show off projects. You can also stop by the shop or attend Monthly Member Meetups (check the events page for the next meetup).

Guests are welcome on a limited basis. They must follow all safety rules. You’re responsible for their behavior and safety, so plan ahead if you want to bring someone in.

Short-term project storage is available on a space-available basis. Check with Steven before leaving materials or large workpieces behind. Long-term storage isn’t guaranteed—our shelves are for builds, not backups.

The Joinery provides major machinery, some hand tools, and shared bits and blades. You’ll need to bring your own wood, finishes, consumables (sand paper and glue are availiable for sale) and any specialty bits or blades. If you’re unsure—ask first, don’t assume.

As part of your member ship comformation you recieved a training Discount Code, Visit the Classes & Events page and register through our online calendar. 

You’ll receive a link to the online safety/orientation course when you join. It’s hosted on our Club Express portal and includes short videos and quizzes. It must be completed before your door credentials can be activated.

Yes. We’re not handing you a loaded nail gun without training. At minimum you must complete our safety/orientation class, and certain tools (like the lathe, CNC, and Lasers) require their own certifications or training. With in the first 60 days you must complete one of our hands on couses such as the Basic Woodworking or Introduction to Woodworking class. 

The shop is open 24/7 for members. While we don’t have regular staffed hours, help is never far away—post in Discord if you need assistance or check the Events page for scheduled assisted shop hours.

Provide a headshot (similar to a driver’s-license photo) and a four-digit PIN; we’ll enroll them and activate your door credentials. After that, stop by the shop — the system will recognize your face (or accept your PIN) and let you in — no secret handshake required.

We keep it simple—one flat monthly fee that covers you and everyone in your household. That said, we know students are usually working with tighter budgets, so we offer a discounted rate just for them.

No. New woodworkers are welcome. We’ll teach you the basics through our orientation and beginner classes. Just bring curiosity and respect for sharp things.

Once you’ve paid your fee and completed the online orientation, we activate your door credentials—usually within a week. We’re fast, but we don’t cut corners on safety.

There’s no waitlist—just join, complete your orientation, and you’re in. While you’re getting started in the shop, be sure to schedule your hands-on class within your first 60 days of joining.

Our Basic Membership covers your immediate household — it’s essentially a family plan. We also offer discounted Student Memberships for active students; those are individual memberships and don’t include family members.

You must be at least 18 to hold a membership. Teens aged 16‑17 can participate with a guardian present, and both must complete orientation.

We get it—woodworking isn’t for everyone. If you decide the shop isn’t your thing, you can cancel your membership anytime through the Member Portal. Your training fee is non‑refundable, but at least you’ll leave with a few new skills and a fresh appreciation for sawdust.

The one-time training fee covers your orientation and the hands-on Tool Tote class. If you’d rather take the Introduction to Woodworking course, you can apply $100 of your training fee toward that class. Think of it as your ticket to safe, confident shop access—just be sure to use the credit within your first 60 days.

Yes! We offer introductory classes and open house events on the second Saturday of most months, where you can tour the shop and even make a small project. It’s like test‑driving a workbench.

In your first hands-on class—usually our Basic Woodworking or Intro to Woodworking—you’ll learn to safely use the table saw, miter saw, drill press, planer, joiner and band saw. We’ll ease you into more advanced machines as your confidence grows; we won’t throw you onto the lathe on day one.

The Joinery supplies the big machines, and project wood and supplies. Closed‑toe shoes, eye and hearing protection, Pencil and Paper are yours to bring if you want them. We provide the tools; you provide the common sense and PPE.

Our primary focus is adult education, but we occasionally host youth workshops for teens aged 16‑17 accompanied by a parent or guardian. Keep an eye on our class calendar or contact us if you’re interested in a family-friendly session.

Most classes either provide all materials and supplies or there is a material fee. We would prefer to use the wood we prepare for the class to keep everyone on the same schedule.

For most introductory classes, we supply the wood, hardware, glue, and other consumables you’ll need. For project-based or advanced classes, the description will specify if you need to purchase or bring your own materials. If in doubt, ask the instructor ahead of time.

Please plan to arrive at least 10 minutes early so you have time to get settled and review safety guidelines. If you show up more than 10 minutes late, we may not be able to catch you up and you might forfeit your seat without a refund, since the instructor can’t restart the entire class. If you know you’ll be late, let us know as soon as possible.

Most classes run 2-4 hours per session, though some multi-day workshops may span multiple evenings or weekends. Weekend class sessions can last 8 hours in a day. Check the class description for specific times — we keep them manageable so you can actually finish the project.

If we cancel a class due to low enrollment or unforeseen circumstances, we’ll notify you and offer a full refund or transfer your registration to another date. If an instructor needs to reschedule, we’ll work with you to find a new time that fits your schedule.

Yes, we offer private sessions for members and non-members. If you want focused attention or have a specific project, contact Steven to schedule a one-on-one. Rates vary depending on the instructor and length of the session.

We keep our classes small—usually 4 to 8 students—so everyone gets hands-on time and attention. Popular classes fill quickly, so register early.

Yes. Most of our classes are open to non-members at a slightly higher fee. It’s a great way to get a feel for the shop before committing to a membership. Note that non-members won’t have open-shop access after class unless they join.

Some advanced classes require you to complete our introductory courses or have specific tool certifications. Check the class description for prerequisites. If you’re unsure, ask; we want you to succeed, not get in over your head.

We love when members share their expertise. If you’re an experienced woodworker and want to teach or assist, reach out to Steven with your idea. We’ll ask to see samples of your work and make sure you’re comfortable leading a class. Compensation or shop credit can be arranged.

We understand things come up. If you cancel at least 48 hours before the class, we’ll refund your fee or apply it as credit to another session. Cancellations inside 48 hours or no-shows forfeit the seat; our instructors still have to show up.

Wear closed-toe shoes and bring your own safety glasses and hearing protection if you have them; we have extras at the shop. For most intro classes we provide all tools and materials. If a class requires special materials, we’ll list them in the class description. Bring your enthusiasm and be ready to learn.

Our Tool Tote class is a hands‑on project where you build a sturdy hardwood tote from scratch. Along the way you’ll learn layout, measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing techniques using the table saw, miter saw, drill press and more. You leave with a finished tote and the confidence to tackle future projects.

Yes, for most classes members do get a discount.  

Head to the Classes & Events page on our website, pick the class you want, and click Register. You’ll need to be logged into the Member Portal to complete your booking and apply any training fee credit.

Start with our mandatory online safety/orientation course to learn shop rules. Then enroll in the Tool Tote or Intro to Woodworking class, where we walk you through safe use of the table saw, miter saw, drill press and hand tools. These foundation classes open the door to more advanced courses.

A properly aligned rip fence keeps your cuts true and prevents binding. With the saw unplugged, slide the fence up against the blade and measure the distance from the blade to the fence at both the front and the back using a combination square or tape; adjust the fence until the distance is the same at both points so the fence is parallel to the blade. On SawStop fences there are set screws or adjustments that let you tweak the alignment; consult your manual for the model‑specific procedure. Once the fence is parallel, calibrate the scale by setting the fence to a known distance (for example 1 in.) and making a test rip cut on scrap, then adjust the indicator so the measurement matches the actual cut width. Always lock the fence firmly before cutting and check alignment periodically, especially if the saw has been moved.

For crosscuts you should use a miter gauge or, better yet, a crosscut sled. A crosscut sled has a rear fence that supports the workpiece and prevents it from twisting; all cuts should be made with the wood resting against that fence and with any stop blocks secured (Sawstop blade height adjustment). Never run a board between the blade and the rip fence for a crosscut, because the board will be trapped between two fences and invites binding and kickback (Blade Alignment to the Table). If you need a stop for repeated cuts, clamp a short block to the rip fence well in front of the blade so the cutoff can move freely after the cut. Plan your cut so that the wood has only one reference surface against the fence and can exit the blade without being pinched.

Always adjust the blade angle only when the saw is off and the blade has stopped. On a SawStop, there is a locking knob in the centre of the tilt handwheel. Loosen the knob by turning it counter‑clockwise, then rotate the handwheel until the blade is at your desired angle (for example, 45° for a bevel cut). Once the blade angle is set, tighten the lock knob to secure it before powering the saw back on (What is the recommended height of the blade on a table …).

Kickback happens when a board binds on the back of the blade and is thrown toward you. To prevent it, use the safety features that come with your SawStop: keep the riving knife or splitter installed and use the anti‑kickback pawls and blade guard. Make sure your rip fence is parallel to the blade so the cut doesn’t pinch the kerf. Use featherboards or fence‑mounted rollers ahead of the blade to keep the stock tight against the fence, and always position featherboards on the infeed side (Sawstop contractor saw blade height adjustment issue). Feed the workpiece smoothly with push sticks or a push block, and never cross‑cut a board using the rip fence as a stop (use a sled or miter gauge instead). Planning your cuts and denying wood access to the back of the blade are the best cures for kickback.

For most cuts, raise the blade so the top of the highest tooth is just slightly above the material you’re cutting — roughly 1/8″ to 3/8″ or about one full tooth’s height above the workpiece. This keeps the exposed blade area small while still allowing the gullets to clear chips, which improves cut quality and reduces the chance of kickback (What is the recommended height of the blade on a table …).

Most accidental contacts with the blade result in only a minor cut because the SawStop brake fires almost instantly. However, if your hand moves into the blade at high speed, a more serious injury is still possible. Always use proper push sticks and safe practices.

The safety system will still activate when your skin touches the blade, but wearing gloves is not recommended. A glove can snag on the blade and pull your hand into it at high speed, leading to more severe injury even though the brake will fire.

SawStop saws can cut most wet wood. Very green or very wet stock—especially pressure‑treated lumber—may be conductive enough to trigger the brake. If you’re unsure, use Bypass Mode to make a test cut; if the material is conductive, the red light on the control box will flash.

If the brake fires, replace the brake cartridge and inspect the blade. Changing the cartridge is straightforward and takes around 90 seconds. Standard brake cartridges cost about $89 and dado cartridges about $109. The saw is designed to absorb the force of activation, so activation does not damage the saw.

The SawStop system monitors an electrical signal on the blade. When your skin contacts the blade, the signal changes because the human body conducts electricity. The system responds by firing an aluminum brake into the blade, stopping it and dropping it below the table in less than five milliseconds, preventing serious injury (Sawstop tips and tricks for new owners).

Always turn off the band saw and wait until the blade comes to a complete stop before cleaning the table. Use a brush, stick, or push tool to sweep away sawdust and scrap pieces—never use your hands while the blade is moving. If you need to reach near the blade or perform more thorough cleaning, make sure the machine is unplugged or locked out to prevent accidental start-up.

No. You should never leave a band saw running unattended. Always turn off the saw whenever you are not actively cutting or if you need to step away, even briefly. This prevents accidental contact or projectiles and ensures the machine is safe before making any adjustments or leaving the area.

If the blade binds, breaks, or malfunctions, immediately turn off the saw and step away. Do not open the wheel guards or try to free the blade until the machine has completely stopped. Notify shop staff so the machine can be inspected and repaired.

No. Never use your fingers as a guide or to clear debris near the blade. Use push sticks, fences or guides to move material, and wait until the blade has completely stopped before removing scrap or sawdust with a brush or tool.

Besides safety glasses, wear hearing protection, avoid loose clothing or jewellery, tie back long hair, and wear non-slip shoes. A dust mask or face shield may also be appropriate depending on the material being cut.

Feed the workpiece smoothly and at a consistent rate without forcing it. Use the fence or a push stick to guide the stock, maintain steady downward pressure, and never twist or bend the material while cutting.

Before starting the band saw, clear the table of scraps, ensure the workpiece is not touching the blade, check that the blade is properly tensioned and guides are set, and make sure the workspace is well‑lit and free of obstructions.

Keep your hands and fingers at least two inches away from the blade at all times. Use push sticks or guides to control the material and never use your hands to remove scraps near the blade.

Always set the upper blade guard/guide as close to your workpiece as possible, typically within 1/4 inch above the material. This reduces the exposed blade length and provides better control.

Always wear appropriate eye protection when operating the band saw. Safety glasses shield your eyes from flying debris or sparks created while cutting. Wearing them significantly reduces the risk of eye injuries.