SawStop Table Saw

A properly aligned rip fence keeps your cuts true and prevents binding. With the saw unplugged, slide the fence up against the blade and measure the distance from the blade to the fence at both the front and the back using a combination square or tape; adjust the fence until the distance is the same at both points so the fence is parallel to the blade. On SawStop fences there are set screws or adjustments that let you tweak the alignment; consult your manual for the model‑specific procedure. Once the fence is parallel, calibrate the scale by setting the fence to a known distance (for example 1 in.) and making a test rip cut on scrap, then adjust the indicator so the measurement matches the actual cut width. Always lock the fence firmly before cutting and check alignment periodically, especially if the saw has been moved.

For crosscuts you should use a miter gauge or, better yet, a crosscut sled. A crosscut sled has a rear fence that supports the workpiece and prevents it from twisting; all cuts should be made with the wood resting against that fence and with any stop blocks secured (Sawstop blade height adjustment). Never run a board between the blade and the rip fence for a crosscut, because the board will be trapped between two fences and invites binding and kickback (Blade Alignment to the Table). If you need a stop for repeated cuts, clamp a short block to the rip fence well in front of the blade so the cutoff can move freely after the cut. Plan your cut so that the wood has only one reference surface against the fence and can exit the blade without being pinched.

Always adjust the blade angle only when the saw is off and the blade has stopped. On a SawStop, there is a locking knob in the centre of the tilt handwheel. Loosen the knob by turning it counter‑clockwise, then rotate the handwheel until the blade is at your desired angle (for example, 45° for a bevel cut). Once the blade angle is set, tighten the lock knob to secure it before powering the saw back on (What is the recommended height of the blade on a table …).

Kickback happens when a board binds on the back of the blade and is thrown toward you. To prevent it, use the safety features that come with your SawStop: keep the riving knife or splitter installed and use the anti‑kickback pawls and blade guard. Make sure your rip fence is parallel to the blade so the cut doesn’t pinch the kerf. Use featherboards or fence‑mounted rollers ahead of the blade to keep the stock tight against the fence, and always position featherboards on the infeed side (Sawstop contractor saw blade height adjustment issue). Feed the workpiece smoothly with push sticks or a push block, and never cross‑cut a board using the rip fence as a stop (use a sled or miter gauge instead). Planning your cuts and denying wood access to the back of the blade are the best cures for kickback.

For most cuts, raise the blade so the top of the highest tooth is just slightly above the material you’re cutting — roughly 1/8″ to 3/8″ or about one full tooth’s height above the workpiece. This keeps the exposed blade area small while still allowing the gullets to clear chips, which improves cut quality and reduces the chance of kickback (What is the recommended height of the blade on a table …).

Most accidental contacts with the blade result in only a minor cut because the SawStop brake fires almost instantly. However, if your hand moves into the blade at high speed, a more serious injury is still possible. Always use proper push sticks and safe practices.

The safety system will still activate when your skin touches the blade, but wearing gloves is not recommended. A glove can snag on the blade and pull your hand into it at high speed, leading to more severe injury even though the brake will fire.

SawStop saws can cut most wet wood. Very green or very wet stock—especially pressure‑treated lumber—may be conductive enough to trigger the brake. If you’re unsure, use Bypass Mode to make a test cut; if the material is conductive, the red light on the control box will flash.

If the brake fires, replace the brake cartridge and inspect the blade. Changing the cartridge is straightforward and takes around 90 seconds. Standard brake cartridges cost about $89 and dado cartridges about $109. The saw is designed to absorb the force of activation, so activation does not damage the saw.

The SawStop system monitors an electrical signal on the blade. When your skin contacts the blade, the signal changes because the human body conducts electricity. The system responds by firing an aluminum brake into the blade, stopping it and dropping it below the table in less than five milliseconds, preventing serious injury (Sawstop tips and tricks for new owners).